In front of the former Nazi Germany embassy in Bucharest

The building of the former Nazi Germany embassy is still standing in Bucharest. It is a run of the mill Beaux Arts style building, now empty and derelict, and in many aspects a place haunted by the terrible ghosts of the Second World War. The infamous Nazi ambassador, Manfred von Killinger, a high ranking NSDAP official and notorious antisemite has been headquartered there. He oversaw from the balcony of the building, sporting the Nazi salute, processions organised by the Romanian fascists, or parades of the Romanian army and Wehrmacht.


I endeavour through this series of periodic articles to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural history and heritage.


If you plan acquiring or selling a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advise you in sourcing and transacting the property, specialist research, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contact page of this weblog.

The Royal Antifascist Coup of 23 August 1944 in Romania

Michael of Romania by Ivor Porter – book cover

On 23 August 1944, King Michael of Romania led the antifascist against the pro-German government, by personally arresting the dictator, marshal Ion Antonescu, a war criminal responsible for the death of hundred of thousands of Romanian and Soviet Jews, who allied the country with Nazi Germany and took it into a hugely disastrous war against the Soviet Union where, by some reckonings, over half a million of Romanian soldiers perished senselessly. The subsequent communist government hijacked the significance of this day claiming the entire merit for themselves and declaring it as the National Day. Nowadays the event is largely forgotten or in the best case ignored by a population that has a low level of education and interest in history, reflected also in the wholesale destruction of the country’s architectural heritage for the purpose of crude property speculation. King Michael, by allying Romania with the democratic powers and the Soviet Union, ensured the shortening of the entire WWII with at least six months, according to western historians, and obtained a better deal for Romania in the subsequent peace negotiations.

In 2008 I published, in the academic magazine “Cold War History”, a review of one of the best books on those events and the personality of King Michael, written by Ivor Porter (“Michael of Romania: The King and the Country”), a former British special operative in those days, who participated directly at the events and is a close friend of His Majesty. He died in 2012 at the age of 98 after an eventful and exemplary life, here is his obituary in the Daily Telegraph). I am extremely fortunate and honoured to have met in the past decade both these two personalities in places like London or Bucharest. The book review below is my humble tribute to HM King Michael and his heroic deeds on this day in 1944:

Cold War History

Vol. 8, No. 4, November 2008, Routledge, pp. 564-565

Michael of Romania: The King and the Country, by Ivor Porter, Stroud, Sutton, 2005, xxi + 328pp.

The relevance of monarchies in modern South-East European history is a subject that is very much underrated by the Western specialists on the region. The Balkan monarchs made crucial contributions to the process of state and nation building and even today their pre-eminence is conspicuous in countries such as Romania, where the king is a public figure of highest moral integrity who saved the country from disaster in the Second World War, or in Bulgaria, where the monarch became one of the prime ministers after the fall of communism. In this timely book Ivor Porter charts the life of King Michael of Romania with great skill and in-depth understanding. Through eloquent personal accounts and historical records from the king’s personal archive he shows how very much the life of the sovereign was intertwined with the history of his country. The author knows Romania intimately, being well known for his activity as a British special operations executive operative in the country and later as a staff member of the Allied Control Commission in Bucharest.

The book is thus an important witness statement that throws new light on the onset of the Cold War in Romania and South-East Europe. The author shows that the communitisation of the country started with the direct Western approval, and also because of Allied’s unwarranted trust in the Soviet Union, coupled with hesitation at every step, mirroring in many aspects the behaviour toward Hitler before the war. Moscow did not display such niceties and went straight for the jugular in order to achieve its objectives. In Romania there was room for manoeuvre against the Soviet plans in 1945–46, but the opportunity to act was lost because of West’s procrastination. The Russians, unlike the Western Allies, expertly knew the problems of Romania and were able to exploit them in full, as shown by the restoration of Transylvania to Romania as a powerful bargaining argument securing the country’s cooperation.

King Michael of Romania and Queen Mother Helen – Diana Mandache collection

King Michael stands apart as a moral beacon in the middle of his country’s tragedies. Even in 1943 he made a public call for the country to extricate itself from the war, causing panic among the pro-German leadership. His greatest accomplishment was the coup of 23 August 1944, when with immense courage and vision he crucially instrumented the overthrow the pro-German dictatorship, with the effect that Romania immediately joined the Allies’ cause. The country thus avoided an imminent catastrophe, and according to western sources, the king’s action shortened the war by six months. That is a most remarkable achievement, even more so for a 23-year-old monarch, revealed by the fact that the army and administration followed their sovereign unwaveringly. That brought him and Romania the esteem of the Allies, well expressed in Churchill’s instruction to the British representatives in Bucharest: ‘stick to the boy’ (p. 130). The Soviets were conscious of his popularity among the people and even decorated the king with the Order of Victory, the highest Soviet honour given to only five foreigners, among them General Eisenhower. Uniquely in Cold War Europe, this resulted in three years of uneasy cohabitation between the king and a Soviet-imposed government led by the communists, with the Red Army present all over the country.

A great merit of this book lies in confirming the continuity between the successive dictatorships that plagued Romania in the twentieth century – beginning with the royal dictatorship of King Carol II, Michael’s father, continued by the wartime fascist-military one of Marshal Antonescu, and culminating in the communist totalitarianism. There was not only continuity of methods and motifs, but also of individuals involved at all levels in propping up these successive dictatorships with equal zeal. Through his actions King Michael interrupted that vicious cycle for a very brief period, and after his forced abdication he became a symbol of democracy and hope for most Romanians in the decades to come. Even after 1989 the crypto-communists that came to power continued to put up obstacles to his definitive return home. He was allowed to reside in Romania again and regain his citizenship only in 1997, once the country made a decisive break with the legacy of the Cold War, when for the first time the opposition gained power through democratic elections. The book thus makes it abundantly clear why we need to investigate seriously the royal history of South-East Europe in order to enhance our understanding of the Cold War problems in that often unstable region of the world. © Valentin Mandache

Winter and history in Bucharest’s Cismigiu Park

The classics of Romanian literature bust statues located in the Writers’ Circle area (landscaped in 1943) in Cismigiu Park, Bucharest. (©Valentin Mandache)

I could not resist the temptation to post some images reflecting the heavy snowfall affecting Bucharest this winter. Cismigiu Park is Bucharest’ oldest city centre park, laid out in its present state in the mid-1900s by the Austrian landscape architect Friedrich Rebhun, famous as the designer of many public and private gardens in Romania of that period. Then, the park had two main design themes: a formal French inspired garden and a ‘natural state’ English garden style sector. Subsequently, the park had acquired a series of smaller sections in a diversity of styles. The snowy bust statues from the collage I made above were put in place in 1943 and represent the classics of Romanian literature (Duiliu Zamfirescu, Alexandru Vlahuţă, Ion Creangă, Ştefan Octavian Iosif, Ion Luca Caragiale, Titu Maiorescu, Alexandru Odobescu, Mihai Eminescu, Vasile Alecsandri, Nicolae Bălcescu, Bogdan Petriceicu Haşdeu and George Coşbuc). They are sculpted in Carrara marble, a gift from Italy, a wartime Axis ally of Romania. In 1943 the war was still quite far away from the country, in the steppes of Russia, but the change of fortunes for Romania as a Nazi ally was already felt in the air, especially after the Stalingrad disaster where the country lost probably over 150,000 (!) soldiers. The statues are an expression of the nationalism of the period and part of the effort of the authorities to stir up patriotism among the locals. The statues are quite run of the mill type, nothing approaching sculptural masterworks, in a style combining some vague Art Deco elements and stern fascist Mussolinian lines. They are quite picturesque nowadays, arranged in a park circle, surrounded by rich vegetation, a real delight for contemporary Bucharest people, who are mostly oblivious about the quite dramatic history of these statues.


I endeavor through this daily image series to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural heritage.


If you plan acquiring a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advice you in locating the property, specialist research, planning permissions, restoration project management, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contactpage of this weblog.